The European Union recently implemented new regulations regarding retinol, a popular skincare ingredient. While microplastics and glitter have already been banned due to their environmental impact, retinol faced scrutiny over its concentration in beauty products. The good news is that retinol won’t be banned in Europe, but there are now restrictions in place. As of the end of 2023, over-the-counter products like retinol serums and moisturizers will have limits on the amount of retinol they can contain. Face and hand products can have up to 0.3% pure retinol, while body lotions are capped at 0.05%.
Although these rules are now in effect, products with higher retinol concentrations won’t disappear overnight. Brands have a three-year grace period to adjust their formulas if they want to continue selling in Europe. It’s essential to note that products not meeting the new regulations are not necessarily unsafe, according to dermatologist Dr. Magnus Lynch. The goal of these restrictions is to prevent excessive exposure to vitamin A, which can have adverse health effects when consumed in large amounts.
While vitamin A is crucial for vision, immune function, and skin health, excessive intake can lead to health issues. The EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety highlighted that the contribution of vitamin A from cosmetics is relatively low compared to food but can still add to overall consumer exposure. Concerns mainly revolve around potential risks during pregnancy and skin irritation from retinol use.
Interestingly, the new regulations only impact over-the-counter retinol products, not prescription tretinoin, which is absorbed in smaller quantities and poses less risk of vitamin A overload. Dr. Lynch suggests that most individuals can benefit from 0.3% retinol, with prescription retinoids being a viable option for those needing stronger treatment. Online services now offer tretinoin prescriptions without requiring a visit to a dermatologist, providing an alternative for those seeking higher-strength retinoids.
